Alchemy and essential oils were central to Jill Stuart's inspiration for Fall 2017 which translated into a collection that fuses a combination of various textures, prints and lengths along with a play on layers. A sumptuously dark color palette of mostly black punctuated by metallics and occasional pops of red, blue and purple serves as the backdrop for the languid silhouettes. The collection melds retro 70's boho with Victorian details like high necklines, puffed sleeves, velvet bodices, tiered skirts, underlays and ruffles. Overall the outfits exuded a sense of diaphanous glamour and wearable edge. Standout looks for me included all the metallic Swiss dot embellished pieces as as well as the exquisitely tailored coats and jackets. The styling also provided ideas for creative ways of layering as velvet was juxtaposed with tulle, printed pussy bow blouses and knit turtlenecks were shown under dresses and corset belts worn over outerwear.
A darkly romantic beauty story complemented the fashions. Using Jill Stuart Beauty products, makeup artist Aaron de Mey came up with two distinct looks on a matte skin base. One featured a warm toned smokey cat eye paired with muted natural lips and the other, lightly defined glossy lids paired with a lustrous deep burgundy lip color. The effortlessly undone hairstyles by Didier Malige which paid homage to the New Romantics era were created by highlighting the natural texture of each model's hair by adding volume or enhancing curls or sleekness.
The collection preview held in a Financial District Skylight space was presented in two acts with the models rotating on three sets of elevated platforms. This format allowed attendees up close views of all the looks which is a reason why I tend to prefer presentations to runway shows. I also find presentations are almost always easier to photograph as well. In many cases I found myself wanting to zoom in on the makeup and the details on the outfits because they were just beautiful especially all the embroidery.
I only attended a few shows this NYFW season as I don't really care to go out much in this weather. This one was a must because my admiration for Jill Stuart's modern and feminine aesthetic goes back to when I used to frequent her shop on Greene Street. They held the best sales and some of her pieces remain wardrobe favorites that I still often wear. The New York based designer's clothing and beauty line is also quite popular in Asia, particularly in Japan and South Korea.
“I think the collection is a conversation of fabrics and textures.” Jill Stuart
Photos: Through My Lens